Broad Peak – 8047 m
Broad Peak is so named for the breadth of its top, but the locals call it Falchan Kangri. The height of the main peak is 8,047 m/26,401 ft. It has also been called the enormously triple-headed Breithorn (4,165 m high three-headed peak of the European Alps) of the Baltoro. More than 3150 meters ascent from the base camp on West Spur and North Ridge is on the scrambling weaves of snow and rock to the crest of the Spur. The route beyond is entirely on the glacier with occasional ice walls over 7500 meters. A well-defined route leads from the Col at 7800 to the summit.
An Austrian Expedition led by Marcus Schmuck reached the summit through West Face and North Ridge` without using oxygen on June 9, 1957. The successful climbers were; Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl.
Approach route: | Islamabad-Skardu-Askoli-Concordia-Broad Peak Base Camp |
Duration of Expedition: | 52 |
Average Daily walk: | 6-7 hours |
Climbing Difficulty: | Hard |
Trekking days (in & out): | 11 |
Days at base camp & above: | 32 |
Hotel Nights: | 08 |
Day To Day Itinerary
DAY | DAILY PROGRAM | ALTITUDE | HOTEL/TENT |
01 | Arrival in Islamabad, transfer to hotel | 500m | Hotel |
02 | Flight to Skardu (1 hour) or drive to Chilas (10-12 hours) | 2300m | Hotel |
03 | Reserve day or drive from Chilas to Skardu (7-8 hours) | 2300m | Hotel |
04 | Day for final preparations | 2300m | Hotel |
05 | Jeep drive to Askoli (6 hours) | 3048m | Tents |
06 | Trek to Jhula (5-6 hours) | 3200m | Tents |
07 | Trek to Paiju (6-7 hours) | 3600m | Tents |
08 | Rest day for acclimatization | 3600m | Tents |
09 | Trek to Urdukas (9-10 hours) | 4240m | Tents |
10 | Trek to Goro-II (7-8 hours) | 4500m | Tents |
11 | Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp (8-9 hours) | 4800m | Tents |
12-43 | Days at Broad Peak Base Camp and above | Tents | |
44 | Trek to Goro II (6-7 hours) or Ali Camp (7-8 hours) | Tents | |
45 | Trek to Khuburste (7-8 hours) or Kuispang (8-9 hours) | Tents | |
46 | Trek to Bardumal (8-9 hours) | Tents | |
47 | Trek to Askoli (7-8 hours) | Tents | |
48 | Drive to Skardu (6 hours) | Hotel | |
49 | Flight for Islamabad or drive to Chilas or Naran | Hotel | |
50 | Free day or drive from Chilas to Islamabad | Hotel | |
51 | Reserve day | Hotel | |
52 | Departure from Islamabad |
2- If the flight operates for Skardu on day 2, drive to Askoli on day-4 is possible to gain an extra day for climbing/acclimatization